I Want This Dress

After my rant on Monday about my experience at the mall, I not at all surprised that General Growth Properties, second largest mall operator in the US, has filed for bankruptcy. Judging by your response to that post, I am not alone in disliking "The Shopping Mall". The retail industry is in for a bumpy ride over the next couple of years, and we are going to see many stores disappear. Hopefully, the retailers that are left will recognize that we want a better experience when we shop. Enough said - stepping off the soapbox and moving on.

I want this dress. Everything about it is perfect - the color, the drape, the long sash tie, and the fact that it looks timeless. Care to guess when it was made? Looks modern doesn't it? Go ahead, guess.

Of course, you know this blog does not feature modern clothing, so you won't be able to run to the dreaded mall and buy it today. If you could, you would find it made of polyester dreck, or maybe cheap silk if you're lucky. But, my friends, this dress is infinitely better than that. It is made of wool chiffon, a high-end, very lightweight wool with a crepe weave. Did you know that lightweight wool is very comfortable to wear in the summer? Because it is a natural fiber, it breathes and keeps you cool - unlike polyester, which will make you feel like you are wearing a sweat box. Wool drapes beautifully, resists wrinkles, and won't give you a problem with static cling. I really want this dress.

Did you guess? It was made in 1963 by Oleg Cassini Young America. If anyone out there ever finds this dress, please send it to me. I covet this dress. I need this dress. I must have this dress.

Vintage Swimsuits 1960

It's swimsuit Wednesday once again. These ads all appeared in May 1960. There's lots of body hugging knits with molded cups. Enjoy!

Jantzen "Fabulastic" suit with molded cups and a single shoulder strap. Va va voom! Sold for $20.00 (about $148.00 in today's dollar).

Rose Marie Reid elasticized knit suit with an inner "Circolair" swim-bra which allows the deeply cut back. Sold for $22.95 (about $170.00 in today's dollar).

B. Altman offered this black and white stripe maillot made from nylon and rubber Lastex knit in their Vacation Shop. Sold for $22.95 (about $170.00 in today's dollar).

"Just wear a smile and a Jantzen". Pink maillot with a fringed collar and French bra cups. Sold for $25.00 (about $184.00 in today's dollar).

Catalina takes a blue cotton Tiki print and criss-crosses the bustline, goddess drapes the front. Sold for $12.95 (about $96.00 in today's dollar).

Catalina again, this time in solid red Orlon acrylic, nylon, and rubber knit with molded cups and a white plastic buckle at the bust. Sold for $19.95 (about $148.00 in today's dollar).

Jean-Marie Armand

1969

Jean-Marie Armand was born about 1930. He got his start at Nina Ricci in 1953 and continued there for 7 years, working his way up to an assistant designer position.

Madelaine de Rauch, Spring 1961

Armand's first big break came in 1960, when he was hired as the designer for Madelaine de Rauch. His first solo collection for de Rauch was shown in January 1961. For weeks before the line was presented, rumors abounded that Armand was the next great talent. However, the line was a huge flop, as he showed nothing new or innovative. In fact, Armand showed tailored suits, coats, and dresses that were too similar to the designs he used to produce at Nina Ricci. The audience was so disappointed, many people walked out before the show was complete.

1969

Armand then disappeared from press mention until July of 1965 when he opened his own small couture house in Paris. His designs were very modern and architectural, much like those of Courreges and Cardin. He introduced his quadrangular skirt, one made of 4 panels whose seams formed an angular shape (see first photo above). He continued to use the quadrangular design season after season.

1969

His star continued to rise for the next few years as his unusual designs met with acclaim. His tiny Paris showroom was known for it's Mod look with white walls, spherical seats, and plexiglass runway.

1968

Armand reached the height of his career in 1968 and 1969. You see many of his best designs from those years here. An interesting note about Armand's designs: He never used buttons as he thought they ruined the lines of the garment. His coats always closed with hidden snaps.

Mentions of Jean-Marie Armand disappear from the press in 1971. Perhaps he was unable to adapt to the softer and less structured aesthetic of the 1970s. Perhaps he closed his showroom for good and retired. I am unable to find a reason for his disappearance. If anyone has more information, please contact me or comment here.

UPDATE: Facebook fan Nadine has graciously allowed me to share this photo of a Jean-Marie Armand coat that is in her personal collection. Thank you, Nadine!